A Leitersdorf showcase

Two weeks ago Andrea Leitersdorf called a dental clinic to book an appointment. Hearing her name, the secretary said: "Leitersdorf? Like the name of the famous fashion designer?"

Andrea, the 36-year-old granddaughter of the late Adolfina (Finy ) Leitersdorf, was touched. "It stunned me that the woman still remembered her. Not many people know her today - unless they are elderly or have a special interest in culture or fashion," says the younger Leitersdorf. And that, she adds, is the reason for the initiative she launched at Villa Dallal, her restaurant and bakery in Tel Aviv's Neve Tzedek neighborhood: an exhibition showcasing the impressive work of her grandmother, who died 25 years ago next month. The exhibition closes tomorrow.

On permanent display in the home of Andrea Leitersdorf's parents, in Savyon, are clothes that Finy designed during the second half of the last century: On one rack are items in natural colors of brown, beige and black; on another, colorful silk dresses.

According to her granddaughter, there are, in fact, two Finys. One is associated with creating designs for Maskit (a government-owned enterprise that promoted ethnic art and culture until the mid-1990s ); the other with creating costumes for theaters, and clothes for select clients and Israel Bonds' fund-raising fashion shows abroad.

"One can see the duality immediately, in the clothes' colorfulness and materials. In the Maskit designs, the colors and materials are natural ... the sheep's wool that is woven by hand. The other clothes are more stylized and the colors are livelier," says the younger Leitersdorf, who considers her grandmother's designs to be "works of art" in the full sense of the term.

What gives a designer national importance is his or her ability to use local colors, to reflect the feelings and particular textures of his country, Finy Leitersdorf said in an interview with the Jerusalem Post in 1966. It is not the Yemenite embroidery that makes the Maskit clothes "Israeli" per se, she added: Rather, it is the range of colors - the desert brown, the impure black inspired by Bedouin tents, and the eternally changing blue of the Mediterranean. To this is added the loose design, which makes life more comfortable in hot climes.

"Finyland" is what Andrea Leitersdorf calls the room with the clothes, in the Savyon house, which overlooks a pool surrounded by thick tropical foliage. This is where her grandmother lived and worked during her final days.

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